Archive for November, 2002

Posted on November 26, 2002 - by deCadmus

Karumandi… Bummer.

From the ironic twist department, the Kenya Karumandi I oh-so-carefully photographed below cups for crap. I don’t yet know if I unknowingly stalled the roast, or whether I just *really* don’t like this origin. I’ll let it rest a bit longer to see if something new and interesting develops… at the moment, though, it’s a bummer.

On the bright side, the Costa Rican from the batch immediately prior is yummy all ’round.

Posted on November 24, 2002 - by deCadmus

The Quest for a Bigger Batch.

Sooner or later it happens. You’ve been roasting for a while… sharing with family and friends. Maybe you’ve just bought a new espresso setup, and suddenly discovered the voracious appetite that your portafilter has for fresh-roasted beans. And it hits you…. Your air roaster, even tweaked to double its roast volume, just isn’t enough. It’s time to upgrade.

So where do you go from here?

The options don’t look good. Commercial sample roasters can roast a pound or more at a time… but at $4000 to $7000 for the privilege, they’re pretty much out of reach [of your author, anyway.] The Alpenrost? At $300 its price is more down-to-earth than the sample roasters, but its eight ounce capacity offers precious little more roast volume than an air-roaster. Is there no way to achieve a 1 pound capacity at thrifty prices? Sure there is… build your own!

If you’re anything like me, chances are you have the makings of a suitable coffee roaster right in your own back yard. In my case, there happens to be an LP gas-fired Weber grill sitting just outside my back door… a two-burner model that’s sold these days as the Genesis A model.

This is Weber’s smaller, two-burner model. Even so, it’s rated at 22,000 BTU, more than capable of roasting a pound of beans. A further bonus: Weber has a full line of accessories for its grills, including a very sturdy rotisserie [model 9890]. On, then, to the heart of the device…

There’s a fair number of things to be considered when choosing materials for a roasting drum… and stainless steel makes short work of virtually all of them. It’s food-safe, able to handle wild temperature swings, and provided it’s fashioned heavily enough, it can take just about whatever abuse you might dish out. For my purposes, a perforated, stainless wastebasket was just the ticket. That’s right… I’m roasting coffee in a trash can. ;)

To mount the drum, I fashioned a bracket for the “open” end of the can out of 1/4 inch aluminum stock… easy enough to shape, and sturdy enough to stay put. To bolster the “closed” end, I used an off-the-shelf electrical fitting. I added brass “fins” to help lift and agitate the coffee beans, which otherwise would simply scoot along the bottom of the roasting drum en masse. Finally, to make it easy to dump the beans at the end of the roast, I attached a funnel-shaped wire basket at the opening, and cut away the wire mesh at the bottom of the basket.

A peek inside the business end [left] shows the wire-basket funnel, the aluminum bracket mounted to the rotisserie’s skewer, and green coffee beans tumbling over the brass fins inside. This photo was taken at the very beginning of the roast.

On the whole, the setup works exceptionally well… and provides a good deal more control than a simple air roaster. I can fully control the temperature throughout the roast, and quickly learned that I would need to. Too much heat, too early in the roast leads to less-than-uniform results. [The salt and pepper result of that particular roast was quite tasty, but I suspect that was merely good fortune... not a method to rely on.] Likewise, not providing enough heat at the critical stages ramping up to first and second crack could easily stall the roast.

Ramping is an operative word. You’ve got to build some momentum to coax a pound of green coffee beans from room temperature to pyrolysis, especially if you don’t want to scorch a few beans along the way. Through trial and error I’ve learned that, with an overall roast time of about twenty minutes, I’ll get solid results if I start the roast with both of the Weber’s burners at “medium” and raise them to “high” through two intervals… the first at about six minutes into the roast, the second at twelve minutes.

Depending on the bean, first crack will begin about 18 minutes into the roast… second around 22 minutes. And don’t forget, it takes some concentrated airflow to cool a pound of just-roasted beans. A “turbo-bladed” fan and a wire basket can make short work of it.

Is it worth the effort? Absolutely. It’d be worthwhile if only to be able to roast greater volumes of coffee in a shorter timeframe. To my delight, I’ve found the flavor of the coffees I roast has improved as well. Acidity, in particular, cups brighter with this drum setup than with my tweaked air-roaster, though perhaps not as bright as the Freshroast, which is a good thing, in my view. Many coffees seem to finish slightly sweeter, as well… but maybe that’s just wishful thinking. ;)

Posted on November 21, 2002 - by deCadmus

Upgrades…

Inspired by conversations with enthusiasts on alt.coffee, about two years ago I bought a tiny air-roaster and a sampler-pack of green coffee beans. I wanted to dabble. To experiment. To see what the fuss was all about.

I have to admit, I was warned. Home-roasting is addictive, I was told. It would lead to increasingly obsessive behaviors. Some folks bit by the coffee bug start collecting curious coffee paraphernalia: scouring eBay for vintage vacuum pots and brewers of all shapes and sizes [except percolators... nobody wants percolators.]

Others choose a path of perpetual upgrades: a whirly-blade grinder is replaced with a cheap burr grinder, and then an expensive one. A steam-driven espresso machine is upgraded to a model with a boiler and a pump. And then one with a heat exchanger. And a rotary pump. And PID temperature controls. The road to espresso Nirvana is paved with gold, and while the journey probably never ends, on the bright side it is a path of ever diminishing returns. Heaven help the pocket-book of the espresso purist.

While I’ve picked up some toys along the way [two vacuum pots, one Neapolitan, two coffee grinders --one dedicated to espresso-- a decent espresso machine, and two percolators... yes, they were gifts, and no, I haven't used them] for me, really, it’s still all about the coffee. Which explains why, despite the techno-toys, I most often brew with a two-dollar manual-drip filter cone.

Posted on November 20, 2002 - by deCadmus

Coffee Quality Bottoms Out?

Even the folks at the Wall Street Journal have noticed that coffee quality has hit a new low. Low prices and huge coffee stockpiles, largely fueled by the glut of low-grown Vietnamese robusta, have dealt a one-two punch to growers of specialty-grade beans… especially the family fincas and tiny cooperatives that produce the best of the world’s arabica beans. Many growers of high-quality beans have no choice but to walk away from land they’ve cultivated for generations; the costs of harvesting their coffee cherries are higher than the prices they can fetch at market.

Some origins are taking bold steps to curtail the oversupply… consider Mexico, which recently ground nearly 8.5 million pounds of coffee into fertilizer. Meanwhile, coffee’s corporate behemoths face the future with their eyes wide shut, by relying increasingly on the lowest of the low grades, and — unbelievably — raising their prices even as the coffee futures market continues to stagnate.

So, what’s in your cup?

Posted on November 20, 2002 - by deCadmus

A Holiday Vision

The night sky is improbably bright. The beacon moon and its crystal corona wash the sky with a pale blue glow, paint purple shadows under the trees…

Then again, the neighbor’s halogen Christmas lights might have something to do with it.

Posted on November 19, 2002 - by deCadmus

Happy Birthday

Happy birthday, Kenny. You would have been 42, today.

Posted on November 19, 2002 - by deCadmus

Restocked!

I have fifteen pounds of just-delivered green coffee sitting on my kitchen counter… the first coffee delivery I’ve had since –eek!– May? June?

I’ve restocked my staples… Costa Rica Tres Rios La Magnolia and Papua New Guinea Kimel. Each is a winning single-origin cup, and the two together make up my “house blend.” And, as I’ve *finally* worked through a Kenya overstock, I picked up some of the promising new Karumandi origin.

Roasting is no longer a daily affair at chez Cadmus. My hopped-up Hearthware Gourmet is gathering dust in the garage. Instead, I’m roasting once a week or so — about a pound of coffee at a time — on my Weber gas grill. I’ve assembled a pretty nifty drum roaster from a perforated, stainless-steel waste-paper basket and an electric rotisserie [details to come...].

The results? Yummy.

Posted on November 19, 2002 - by deCadmus

Let me ’splain.

Let me ’splain. No, that would take too long… let me sum up:

I’ve been whelmed. With work, with a reorganization at work, with a new and rewarding position at work, with acting in an improv troupe, with grief over the untimely loss of my brother, with coaching a troupe of truly talented web folk into a winning team, with other writing projects, coffee roasting, rehearsals, and — as time allows — walking my golden retriever.

So, how’ve you been?