Wherever you go…

Wherever you go…

You’ve climbed a mile nearly straight up on the far shore of Lake Atitlan to the village of San Juan La Laguna and you’re thinking [between gasps for breath] that you’re about as remote as you can possibly be… and you realize just how small the...
Boats? What boats?

Boats? What boats?

A view from Bambu, across the lagoon from Santiago. The dock, while quite lovely, is entirely bereft of the boats we hired to take us to San Juan La Laguna. Nothing to do but watch the women doing their laundry on the shore across the...
Just Swell

Just Swell

Travel tip… if you’re going to take a small boat across Lake Atitlan — several times! — then do so early in the morning or late in the evening, and avoid the 4 to 6 foot xocomil wind...
Behold Atitlan

Behold Atitlan

The deep blue waters of Lake Atitlan… this view is from above Panajachel [or, Gringotenango] and you can see all three volcanoes – Atitlan is almost hiding behind Toliman on the left, and San Pedro stands alone on the...

Finca de Cafe Pastores

First stop on my Guatemalan field trip [er… first stop after a detour to El Salvador, but that’s another story] is the farm and beneficio of Hans Masch at Pastores. Hans is a wonderful host, and a treasure-trove of knowledge about growing and producing...
The Cathedral

The Cathedral

On the east side of the square is the cathedral. Its Baroque facade is a sight to behold, but beyond this pretty face it’s largely in ruins… earthquakes have taken their...

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